Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

4in+ front suspension lift....alignment..????

BDS, ReadyLift, Smaxx... You name it, we know about it here.

by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:21 am

I thought it was pretty ingenious for a street driven vehicle. Not the end all do all, but very likely could work for your needs.
I hate to advocate weird chemicals, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone...but
they've always worked for me.
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by The Roadie » Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:38 am

fishsticks wrote:The rear of my crawler has the shocks in single shear on both sides.
Do you have limiting straps, or is the shock the down-limiting element like it is for the GMT360? Man, this just reminds me I have to call Johnny for some limiting straps.
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by Tenny » Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:57 am

fishsticks wrote:I'd have to see the mount in person before passing judgement like my comrades above.

The rear of my crawler has the shocks in single shear on both sides. Never a problem.

What's the thickness of the metal you're into there? I don't have a TB in my driveway to reference.


it looks like 1/4in thick frame,and the bolt goes all the way through with a nut on back too.

its pretty soild, and there is no load on it.....and my welding is impeccable.

suits exactly what I needed to do
Last edited by Tenny on Tue Aug 13, 2013 12:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by bartonmd » Tue Aug 13, 2013 12:11 pm

You think the 5.3 moves in the weiner dog? Try it in a SWB! We really like ours!

fishsticks wrote:I'd have to see the mount in person before passing judgement like my comrades above.

The rear of my crawler has the shocks in single shear on both sides. Never a problem.

What's the thickness of the metal you're into there? I don't have a TB in my driveway to reference.


My S-10 had single shear rear shocks, but the "bolts" were welded length-wise onto a 3/8" plate where the U-bolts hold the axle to the spring. Tenny correct me if I'm wrong, but this looks like a 1/2-13 nut welded to our 1/8" thick frame, that has a 1/2-13 bolt threaded into it? If so, I wouldn't personally run that even on the street. If you do, make damned sure that you add a spacer on the bump stop, so the shock isn't the bump stop, like it is now. The single shear doesn't bother me on the shock end, being that this is a street vehicle, but what bothers me is the moment that it puts on the nut that's just welded to the frame. If I wanted to run it like that, I'd sleeve the frame and bolt through both sides of our frame. After all, the only reason that our frame thickness has any strength to it is because it's fully boxed. Then, by that time, I would (I did) just pay the $150 for a set of Bilstein 5200 series shocks that are the correct length, are digressively valved, and are much more heavily damped than the stock ones.

Mike
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by Tenny » Tue Aug 13, 2013 12:28 pm

bartonmd wrote:You think the 5.3 moves in the weiner dog? Try it in a SWB! We really like ours!

fishsticks wrote:I'd have to see the mount in person before passing judgement like my comrades above.

The rear of my crawler has the shocks in single shear on both sides. Never a problem.

What's the thickness of the metal you're into there? I don't have a TB in my driveway to reference.


My S-10 had single shear rear shocks, but the "bolts" were welded length-wise onto a 3/8" plate where the U-bolts hold the axle to the spring. Tenny correct me if I'm wrong, but this looks like a 1/2-13 nut welded to our 1/8" thick frame, that has a 1/2-13 bolt threaded into it? If so, I wouldn't personally run that even on the street. If you do, make damned sure that you add a spacer on the bump stop, so the shock isn't the bump stop, like it is now. The single shear doesn't bother me on the shock end, being that this is a street vehicle, but what bothers me is the moment that it puts on the nut that's just welded to the frame. If I wanted to run it like that, I'd sleeve the frame and bolt through both sides of our frame. After all, the only reason that our frame thickness has any strength to it is because it's fully boxed. Then, by that time, I would (I did) just pay the $150 for a set of Bilstein 5200 series shocks that are the correct length, are digressively valved, and are much more heavily damped than the stock ones.

Mike


the shock is not the bump stop, its 1in. short, that why I put it 3.5 in down.

I still my raise the bump stop
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by The Roadie » Tue Aug 13, 2013 12:58 pm

Tenny wrote:....and my welding is impeccable.
Great to hear you've got the experience. We see far too many young noobs whose booger welds with $75 Harbor Freight flux wire 120V welders give boogers a bad name. :facepalm:
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by bartonmd » Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:35 pm

Tenny wrote:
bartonmd wrote:You think the 5.3 moves in the weiner dog? Try it in a SWB! We really like ours!

fishsticks wrote:I'd have to see the mount in person before passing judgement like my comrades above.

The rear of my crawler has the shocks in single shear on both sides. Never a problem.

What's the thickness of the metal you're into there? I don't have a TB in my driveway to reference.


My S-10 had single shear rear shocks, but the "bolts" were welded length-wise onto a 3/8" plate where the U-bolts hold the axle to the spring. Tenny correct me if I'm wrong, but this looks like a 1/2-13 nut welded to our 1/8" thick frame, that has a 1/2-13 bolt threaded into it? If so, I wouldn't personally run that even on the street. If you do, make damned sure that you add a spacer on the bump stop, so the shock isn't the bump stop, like it is now. The single shear doesn't bother me on the shock end, being that this is a street vehicle, but what bothers me is the moment that it puts on the nut that's just welded to the frame. If I wanted to run it like that, I'd sleeve the frame and bolt through both sides of our frame. After all, the only reason that our frame thickness has any strength to it is because it's fully boxed. Then, by that time, I would (I did) just pay the $150 for a set of Bilstein 5200 series shocks that are the correct length, are digressively valved, and are much more heavily damped than the stock ones.

Mike


the shock is not the bump stop, its 1in. short, that why I put it 3.5 in down.

I still my raise the bump stop


How did you measure this? Also, is that including the 2-2.5" that the bump stop will squish under load?

Mike
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by Tenny » Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:51 pm

The Roadie wrote:
Tenny wrote:....and my welding is impeccable.
Great to hear you've got the experience. We see far too many young noobs whose booger welds with $75 Harbor Freight flux wire 120V welders give boogers a bad name. :facepalm:


yea I have a MILLER 625 Spectra argon set-up for up to 3/8s thick

gets the job done, and I worked in a custom muffler/fab shop for 5 years.
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by bartonmd » Tue Aug 13, 2013 2:01 pm

Tenny wrote:
The Roadie wrote:
Tenny wrote:....and my welding is impeccable.
Great to hear you've got the experience. We see far too many young noobs whose booger welds with $75 Harbor Freight flux wire 120V welders give boogers a bad name. :facepalm:


yea I have a MILLER 625 Spectra argon set-up for up to 3/8s thick

gets the job done, and I worked in a custom muffler/fab shop for 5 years.


What are the specs on that? Miller has a Spectrum 625 plasma cutter, but I can't find anything Miller 625 or Miller Spectra that comes up with anything but the Spectrum 625 plasma cutter.

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by Tenny » Tue Aug 13, 2013 2:27 pm

its a combo tig/mig.
now it would be.....maybe a the millermatic 140...I think im not sure. as my model is obs. now
like I said, not sure what models they have now, its something new every year almost.
I have wayyy to many other things to do, then to try and catch someone saying something not true.
you know..??

try looking it up again.
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by TBYODA » Tue Aug 13, 2013 2:31 pm

The Roadie wrote:
Tenny wrote:....and my welding is impeccable.
Great to hear you've got the experience. We see far too many young noobs whose booger welds with $75 Harbor Freight flux wire 120V welders give boogers a bad name. :facepalm:


Hey I resemble that remark. Hahahaha
:facepalm:
Hey got to start some were. I really need some pointers.
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by Tenny » Tue Aug 13, 2013 2:33 pm

hey mike

you sure have alot of questions....

why do you need to know so many things, when you seem to know everything already.

just wondering..??
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by TBYODA » Tue Aug 13, 2013 2:46 pm

I would assume he is making sure u cross your T's and dot your I's so to speak. That is how I read it but that's is a guess. ;)
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by The Roadie » Tue Aug 13, 2013 2:52 pm

Mike's title as "Subject Matter Expert & Off-Road Vendor" says it all. SME is a distinction given by the site owners and moderators to very few members. And having professional credentials. And most everybody here who does functional offroading has one or more of his products on our trucks. They save our bacon. I defer to him and James Downing when it comes to things that need a professional mechanical engineer to analyze. (I do the electrical and electronic issues, because of my background and experience. BSEE '73)
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by bartonmd » Tue Aug 13, 2013 3:02 pm

Tenny wrote:its a combo tig/mig.
now it would be.....maybe a the millermatic 140...I think im not sure. as my model is obs. now
like I said, not sure what models they have now, its something new every year almost.
I have wayyy to many other things to do, then to try and catch someone saying something not true.
you know..??

try looking it up again.


Google isn't even coming up with anything. They make and have made lots of multiprocess welders, but as far as I can tell, the Spectra 625 is not one of them. A Millermatic 140 is a single process 110V MIG welder. If it's a 300A machine, the older multiprocess ones were the Shopmaster, along with several others.

It's not that I'm trying to catch you lying, this is more that I'm a welder on the side, and had never heard of that one before, and tried to look it up to see what it was.


Tenny wrote:hey mike

you sure have alot of questions....

why do you need to know so many things, when you seem to know everything already.

just wondering..??


I have a lot of questions, because your statements and answers have a lot of inconsistencies. You never answered whether you accounted for the squish of the bump stop when doing your measuring for your new mounts. I guess I fail to see how the shock could just barely not bottom out before the bump stop is fully compressed, stock, then you put the shock 3.5" farther down, haven't yet moved the bump stop, and it now has a full inch between when the bump stop stops the suspension, and when the shock bottoms out.

Basically, you have gotten very rude very quickly when people have accused you of having done something wrong, so I'm posing them as questions, so maybe you don't get so irrationally defensive; and maybe we can have a conversation about if, how, and why things are done incorrectly, instead of turning into a name calling e-battle, like every other -even slightly not positive- exchange that you have had on this forum, to date. Bottom line is that I'm posing them as questions to see if I've misunderstood you, if you haven't provided enough information, or if you missed something.

Mike
Last edited by bartonmd on Tue Aug 13, 2013 3:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by v7guy » Tue Aug 13, 2013 3:14 pm

Tenny,

You'll see Barton does the same thing with myself and other members that build stuff. He also takes the time to answer the questions we shoot him on the board and through PMs. Even when we challenge him on his thoughts he backs them up, and with a lot of research elsewhere, I've come to the conclusion that his advice and thoughts are solid (to much irritation to the misses).

He's only asking questions to better understand what you've done or are doing and offer advice/help/thoughts. Which is pretty much what we're all here to do.


We base things on measured fact here. If you look at Bartons old old threads you'll see even he has evolved from the early days, so has Roadie, myself, JamesD, Bacon, Fishsticks, HARDTRAILZ etc. We've all debated the merits and options of mods. It's how we improve the truck. Guys try stuff, we debate the good and bad and we continue to improve and modify. When I've posted measurements I have specifically gone out to the truck and measured it right before I post (it's why it sometimes takes me days to respond). I assume everyone else here does the same.


Nobody is criticizing or calling anyone out, but we all operate on fact as much as we can. It's how we all improve.
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by Tenny » Tue Aug 13, 2013 5:33 pm

he is right though....im home now, and looked at my model welder.

and I gave the model of my plasma cutter instead as got the two models mixed up
my plasma cutter is a spectrum model 625

sowwy

my mig is an older 352 model and is set up for mig and can be pulsed.
can also be converted to do tig welding, but have never done that.

:fro:
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by Tenny » Tue Aug 13, 2013 5:34 pm

v7guy wrote:Tenny,

You'll see Barton does the same thing with myself and other members that build stuff. He also takes the time to answer the questions we shoot him on the board and through PMs. Even when we challenge him on his thoughts he backs them up, and with a lot of research elsewhere, I've come to the conclusion that his advice and thoughts are solid (to much irritation to the misses).

He's only asking questions to better understand what you've done or are doing and offer advice/help/thoughts. Which is pretty much what we're all here to do.


We base things on measured fact here. If you look at Bartons old old threads you'll see even he has evolved from the early days, so has Roadie, myself, JamesD, Bacon, Fishsticks, HARDTRAILZ etc. We've all debated the merits and options of mods. It's how we improve the truck. Guys try stuff, we debate the good and bad and we continue to improve and modify. When I've posted measurements I have specifically gone out to the truck and measured it right before I post (it's why it sometimes takes me days to respond). I assume everyone else here does the same.


Nobody is criticizing or calling anyone out, but we all operate on fact as much as we can. It's how we all improve.



fair enough J.
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by Tenny » Tue Aug 13, 2013 5:39 pm

tires go on tomorrow....

getting excited now...haha

:woot:
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by bartonmd » Tue Aug 13, 2013 6:14 pm

Tenny wrote:he is right though....im home now, and looked at my model welder.

and I gave the model of my plasma cutter instead as got the two models mixed up
my plasma cutter is a spectrum model 625

sowwy

my mig is an older 352 model and is set up for mig and can be pulsed.
can also be converted to do tig welding, but have never done that.

:fro:


That makes more sense on the plasma cutter!

On the MIG/TIG, though, I'm still fuzzy. The only "352" that Miller has ever made, afaik, is the Invision 352, which is like a $13k power supply and separate feeder, that does pulse, but does not do TIG. The Millermatic 350 does pulse, as well, but does not TIG. The XMT350 does MIG with a separate feeder, and does TIG/stick.

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