Do you have limiting straps, or is the shock the down-limiting element like it is for the GMT360? Man, this just reminds me I have to call Johnny for some limiting straps.fishsticks wrote:The rear of my crawler has the shocks in single shear on both sides.
fishsticks wrote:I'd have to see the mount in person before passing judgement like my comrades above.
The rear of my crawler has the shocks in single shear on both sides. Never a problem.
What's the thickness of the metal you're into there? I don't have a TB in my driveway to reference.
fishsticks wrote:I'd have to see the mount in person before passing judgement like my comrades above.
The rear of my crawler has the shocks in single shear on both sides. Never a problem.
What's the thickness of the metal you're into there? I don't have a TB in my driveway to reference.
bartonmd wrote:You think the 5.3 moves in the weiner dog? Try it in a SWB! We really like ours!fishsticks wrote:I'd have to see the mount in person before passing judgement like my comrades above.
The rear of my crawler has the shocks in single shear on both sides. Never a problem.
What's the thickness of the metal you're into there? I don't have a TB in my driveway to reference.
My S-10 had single shear rear shocks, but the "bolts" were welded length-wise onto a 3/8" plate where the U-bolts hold the axle to the spring. Tenny correct me if I'm wrong, but this looks like a 1/2-13 nut welded to our 1/8" thick frame, that has a 1/2-13 bolt threaded into it? If so, I wouldn't personally run that even on the street. If you do, make damned sure that you add a spacer on the bump stop, so the shock isn't the bump stop, like it is now. The single shear doesn't bother me on the shock end, being that this is a street vehicle, but what bothers me is the moment that it puts on the nut that's just welded to the frame. If I wanted to run it like that, I'd sleeve the frame and bolt through both sides of our frame. After all, the only reason that our frame thickness has any strength to it is because it's fully boxed. Then, by that time, I would (I did) just pay the $150 for a set of Bilstein 5200 series shocks that are the correct length, are digressively valved, and are much more heavily damped than the stock ones.
Mike
Great to hear you've got the experience. We see far too many young noobs whose booger welds with $75 Harbor Freight flux wire 120V welders give boogers a bad name.Tenny wrote:....and my welding is impeccable.
Tenny wrote:bartonmd wrote:You think the 5.3 moves in the weiner dog? Try it in a SWB! We really like ours!fishsticks wrote:I'd have to see the mount in person before passing judgement like my comrades above.
The rear of my crawler has the shocks in single shear on both sides. Never a problem.
What's the thickness of the metal you're into there? I don't have a TB in my driveway to reference.
My S-10 had single shear rear shocks, but the "bolts" were welded length-wise onto a 3/8" plate where the U-bolts hold the axle to the spring. Tenny correct me if I'm wrong, but this looks like a 1/2-13 nut welded to our 1/8" thick frame, that has a 1/2-13 bolt threaded into it? If so, I wouldn't personally run that even on the street. If you do, make damned sure that you add a spacer on the bump stop, so the shock isn't the bump stop, like it is now. The single shear doesn't bother me on the shock end, being that this is a street vehicle, but what bothers me is the moment that it puts on the nut that's just welded to the frame. If I wanted to run it like that, I'd sleeve the frame and bolt through both sides of our frame. After all, the only reason that our frame thickness has any strength to it is because it's fully boxed. Then, by that time, I would (I did) just pay the $150 for a set of Bilstein 5200 series shocks that are the correct length, are digressively valved, and are much more heavily damped than the stock ones.
Mike
the shock is not the bump stop, its 1in. short, that why I put it 3.5 in down.
I still my raise the bump stop
The Roadie wrote:Great to hear you've got the experience. We see far too many young noobs whose booger welds with $75 Harbor Freight flux wire 120V welders give boogers a bad name.Tenny wrote:....and my welding is impeccable.
Tenny wrote:The Roadie wrote:Great to hear you've got the experience. We see far too many young noobs whose booger welds with $75 Harbor Freight flux wire 120V welders give boogers a bad name.Tenny wrote:....and my welding is impeccable.
yea I have a MILLER 625 Spectra argon set-up for up to 3/8s thick
gets the job done, and I worked in a custom muffler/fab shop for 5 years.
The Roadie wrote:Great to hear you've got the experience. We see far too many young noobs whose booger welds with $75 Harbor Freight flux wire 120V welders give boogers a bad name.Tenny wrote:....and my welding is impeccable.
Tenny wrote:its a combo tig/mig.
now it would be.....maybe a the millermatic 140...I think im not sure. as my model is obs. now
like I said, not sure what models they have now, its something new every year almost.
I have wayyy to many other things to do, then to try and catch someone saying something not true.
you know..??
try looking it up again.
Tenny wrote:hey mike
you sure have alot of questions....
why do you need to know so many things, when you seem to know everything already.
just wondering..??
v7guy wrote:Tenny,
You'll see Barton does the same thing with myself and other members that build stuff. He also takes the time to answer the questions we shoot him on the board and through PMs. Even when we challenge him on his thoughts he backs them up, and with a lot of research elsewhere, I've come to the conclusion that his advice and thoughts are solid (to much irritation to the misses).
He's only asking questions to better understand what you've done or are doing and offer advice/help/thoughts. Which is pretty much what we're all here to do.
We base things on measured fact here. If you look at Bartons old old threads you'll see even he has evolved from the early days, so has Roadie, myself, JamesD, Bacon, Fishsticks, HARDTRAILZ etc. We've all debated the merits and options of mods. It's how we improve the truck. Guys try stuff, we debate the good and bad and we continue to improve and modify. When I've posted measurements I have specifically gone out to the truck and measured it right before I post (it's why it sometimes takes me days to respond). I assume everyone else here does the same.
Nobody is criticizing or calling anyone out, but we all operate on fact as much as we can. It's how we all improve.
Tenny wrote:he is right though....im home now, and looked at my model welder.
and I gave the model of my plasma cutter instead as got the two models mixed up
my plasma cutter is a spectrum model 625
sowwy
my mig is an older 352 model and is set up for mig and can be pulsed.
can also be converted to do tig welding, but have never done that.