Another TB site...

[Grimor]

Well, I'm on a couple of the other sites (new member at those as well) but looking at lift info so I figured I'd join here as well. So... howdy.

[mikekey]

Welcome to the site. Lots of information here if you take the time to read thru the threads yourself.

I suggest you start here:
The Complete Lifts and Suspension Accessories Thread

and

Maximum Trailblazer Tire Size without Modification

After that hit up the build threads to see what others have done.

[NC_IslandRunner]

Welcome!

[87chevy]

welcome

[djthumper]

Welcome!

Start here, it should have the links that Mike recommended; viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3060

[Grimor]

thank you, thank you... Been reading a lot about what route to go for a lift. I'd really like to level out the truck and maybe go up a little. I added a front hitch and it's sitting pretty low. Not sure how much of a drop I'll get putting the boat trailer on and don't want to scrape at the launch.

From what I'm reading, there is a lift, and a body lift.. The body lift puts the bumpers back where they need to be after a lift, or is that something different?

Stay away from Pro Comp lifts, and take Marks lift kit over BDS... or just spend more upfront and go with radfo coilovers up front and something else for the rear?

And do Marks 3" body lift?

It's all as clear as mud so far lol, back to readin.

[Cable810]

Welcome!!! Make sure to update your Location!

[Conner299]

Body lift is something different. Suspension lift will give you ground clearance, and a body lift will give you tire clearance. Bumpers will still be in the same place, relative to the body, after a suspension lift. There are two body lifts out there. A 2", and a 3". I, personally, prefer the 2", in both looks and functionality. I only plan on up to 32" tires, so it will work well, when that time comes. The 3" would be optimal if you want to stuff 35's up in your wheel wells. And welcome to the site.

[JorDaneeKey]

Body lift is something different. Suspension lift will give you ground clearance, and a body lift will give you tire clearance. Bumpers will still be in the same place, relative to the body, after a suspension lift. There are two body lifts out there. A 2", and a 3". I, personally, prefer the 2", in both looks and functionality. I only plan on up to 32" tires, so it will work well, when that time comes. The 3" would be optimal if you want to stuff 35's up in your wheel wells. And welcome to the site.

3" also looks more badass, especially with the 35" tires. Just saying.....Go Hard or Go Home as I was taught here.

[navigator]

... I'd really like to level out the truck and maybe go up a little. I added a front hitch and it's sitting pretty low. Not sure how much of a drop I'll get putting the boat trailer on and don't want to scrape at the launch. ....

With using your front hitch to launch, you could go with stiffer springs. The right combination could give you some added stiffness for your boat but also provide some lift as well.

"89s" average out to about an inch of lift for most guys. Some get a little more, others a little less.

here is a link for more info on the OEM springs.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=158&hilit=factory+springs+and+associated+lift


The 89's are the stiffest factory springs available. Most guys that run them have skid plates and aftermarket bumpers.

There are other springs 86s, 87s, 88s that are not as stiff and also provide less lift. They are also pretty much unavailable.

Moog makes some springs as well. They are similar to 86s in stiffness but longer than our springs, so slightly stiffer and longer.
Here is one thread with some info, you can get other info by searching for moog and see the lift some guys have.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3366&hilit=moog

[Grimor]

Body lift is something different. Suspension lift will give you ground clearance, and a body lift will give you tire clearance. Bumpers will still be in the same place, relative to the body, after a suspension lift. There are two body lifts out there. A 2", and a 3". I, personally, prefer the 2", in both looks and functionality. I only plan on up to 32" tires, so it will work well, when that time comes. The 3" would be optimal if you want to stuff 35's up in your wheel wells. And welcome to the site.

I really don't plan on going very big with the tires, this will be a daily driver with little to no real off road use. (other than driving through some yards moving trailers around) So body shouldn't be needed then unless I get really motivated to do bigger tires. Do many people do just a front lift to level out the truck (different springs?) I like the way the truck rides currently, reminds me of my 87 towncar, just floats along.

EDIT: after reading about leveling with a lift, I don't think that would be the best option for me. I will be towing and the last thing I need is the front end sticking up after putting a load on the rear.

My TB came with what I assume is a factory hitch, but the specs on the sticker put it more like a Class 2+ instead of a Class 3... (400# tongue weight) instead of 500# for a Class 3. I read the thread here http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=36290 and it seems it's ok to treat as a class 3... Maybe pickup a WDH

[Wahugg]

Here is a chart as far as toeing goes. Stock: 400 with out a distributing hitch, 900 with distributing. Use Z71's and air bags to further increase the ball weight rating.

[The Roadie]

EDIT: after reading about leveling with a lift, I don't think that would be the best option for me. I will be towing and the last thing I need is the front end sticking up after putting a load on the rear.

Any time you tow with a significant hitch weight, like a boat without a WDH, I recommend putting Airlift1000 bags inside the rear coils for helping. They're adjustable from 5-35 PSI and can keep you and your headlights level and reduce any bottoming out in the rear that you might get.

[Grimor]

EDIT: after reading about leveling with a lift, I don't think that would be the best option for me. I will be towing and the last thing I need is the front end sticking up after putting a load on the rear.

Any time you tow with a significant hitch weight, like a boat without a WDH, I recommend putting Airlift1000 bags inside the rear coils for helping. They're adjustable from 5-35 PSI and can keep you and your headlights level and reduce any bottoming out in the rear that you might get.

Thanks for the tip. At less that $90 looks like a no brainier. Their compressor kits run a bit high, so I'll just add a pressure gauge and use my regular comp or pump to put it at pressure when needed. I should add some on my pickup too.