Can't remove spring compressor from spring?

YouTube Videos · by **Trail X** » Mon May 13, 2013 12:56 pm

I wouldn't say pointless. But without fixing the tripod limitation somehow, you wouldn't be able to gain lift. So it really depends on what you're after. If you are after reliability and durability, then I think there are some potential improvements to be had.

by **v7guy** » Tue May 14, 2013 8:43 am

HARDTRAILZ has already verified bigger than 35s will work. He commented that you'd need proper backspacing and to clearance some things to make them practical for offroad use. He's also kicked the rear axle back a couple inches and can still get the tire into the truck with 35s.
There's also jeep guys rolling around on bigger than 35s with 27 spline axles, they only blow up every other trip. Not a great comparison, but it's sorta a spinach to pineapple comparison. lol

There's not a tremendous amount of work involved in doing some A arms... far less than my bumper. Just correct the balljoint angles, don't warp the shit out of it while you weld it in the fixture and you'd be ahead of the game. I would think there are quite a few of us here that are more than capable of going down this road.
There is still the tripot problem, but that can be fixed via RCV or some home brew solution that's not much cheaper.
But at the point you're spending that on axles and you're fabbing arms, do you stop by simply correcting the balljoint angles? How far down that slippery slope do you want to go?

I don't have anything solid in the works. But I have parts coming to check some hunches and educated guesses. None of it will probably work out and you guys are probably just curious about pipe dreams. Don't expect much from me. I'm going to be happy if I get a rear bumper done in the next 3 months without going through a surgery to get it finished. :facepalm:

by **fishsticks** » Tue May 14, 2013 1:12 pm

v7guy wrote:HARDTRAILZ has already verified bigger than 35s will work. He commented that you'd need proper backspacing and to clearance some things to make them practical for offroad use. He's also kicked the rear axle back a couple inches and can still get the tire into the truck with 35s.

I think you misunderstood what I was saying... Or maybe I'm misunderstanding your reply.

37s will physically fit (with some work, like A LOT of offset, tubbing the firewall, rolling the fenders and steering stops).

I tossed this idea around for a long time as well, and I personally don't think there's enough room for a higher angle CV that will hold together. That means a diff drop (like most other IFS lifts) is in order. You will need to lower the subframe 6-8" to have the intermediate shaft clear the oil pan.

So with a diff drop you're going to lose 6"+ of ground clearance. Add 37"+ tires. You'll have less front ground clearance than a truck with 35s and stock diff placement.

27 spline axles may be OK for 37s and light use, but the R&P in the front aluminum housing diff isn't going to last long, let alone the splined disconnect etc. I would venture to say that 37s would be pushing the limits of the 8.6.

I think the recipe for improved IFS on our platform is going to involve the rear sump oil pan, a larger one piece IFS diff (AAM 9.25" maybe?) a new subframe assembly, longer arms, and some reengineering of the steering. Certainly possible, but probably not practical unless you are planning on dune jumping.

Would be way cool to see someone do it though. 8-)

by **v7guy** » Tue May 14, 2013 2:20 pm

I was vague. My measurements show around 6" for a diff drop as well. It would be counter productive. The AAM925 has a similar goofy disconnect as we do, but there are fixes.
I can understand the misunderstanding.

by **drburke** » Tue May 14, 2013 9:46 pm

Should probably create another thread, but while we're off topic..

I'm having a problem with my Z71 shocks. They rattle horizontally over every bump and dip, because nothing is stopping it from moving. In this picture,

you can see there are some sort of washers immediately beside the shock screw openings. I don't have that, so it's simply sliding on the screw. What could I put on each side to prevent this?

by **v7guy** » Tue May 14, 2013 10:17 pm

most guys use a stack of washers

by **dvanbramer88** » Tue May 14, 2013 10:20 pm

Yep, stack washers on both sides to take up the slack and make sure you tighten the bolt real good. It will squish the bushing and hold the shock centered.

by **navigator** » Wed May 15, 2013 8:27 am

Mine took about 8 washers for each side. I didn't originally buy enough and rode around a few weeks with one shock that didn't have enough washers. It makes a lot of noise if you don't have the washers back there.

by **v7guy** » Wed May 15, 2013 10:57 am

drburke wrote:it's simply sliding on the screw. What could I put on each side to prevent this?

If it's sliding on a "screw" your shit is fubar and you need to step away before you kill someone. You're obviously using the wrong fasteners.

by **fishsticks** » Wed May 15, 2013 12:08 pm

v7guy wrote:
drburke wrote:it's simply sliding on the screw. What could I put on each side to prevent this?

If it's sliding on a "screw" your shit is fubar and you need to step away before you kill someone. You're obviously using the wrong fasteners.

by **v7guy** » Thu May 16, 2013 10:14 am

fishsticks wrote:
v7guy wrote:
drburke wrote:it's simply sliding on the screw. What could I put on each side to prevent this?

If it's sliding on a "screw" your shit is fubar and you need to step away before you kill someone. You're obviously using the wrong fasteners.