Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

New guy from Virginia

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by bustedblazer » Tue Jun 29, 2010 6:08 am

I found this site while looking for more lift for my blazer, ive been reading yaws endeavors and have learned a lot. so i've got a gold blazer, 2.5" lift, 265/75/R16 sumitomo all terrains. four wheel drive dosnt work anymore and both side mirrors are broke. and i keep breaking sway bar links. but for some reason i love my tb.
Last edited by bustedblazer on Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by Trail X » Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:27 am

Where in VA? We have a few members that live there. I used to live in Roanoke.

What lift do you have? Smaxx?
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by djthumper » Tue Jun 29, 2010 11:39 am

Welcome to the site.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Jun 29, 2010 11:50 am

fix the 4wd before worrying about lift. :angry whip:

Remove the front sway bar links. They are not needed period. The rears you can do without as well. I run without any for a couple months this winter. Personally I perfer the rear connected though. The front...ditch em. :poke:

who needs mirros when you are going forward :cheers:

You ove it because it is impressive what these can do with what they are and the minimal strength they were given. :finger:
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by fishsticks » Tue Jun 29, 2010 1:43 pm

Another vote for removing the end-links. I don't run front or rear. Swaybars are for sissies. :finger:
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by Gordinho80 » Tue Jun 29, 2010 1:53 pm

+1 more for removing front links. So much better! :safari:
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by bustedblazer » Wed Jun 30, 2010 1:28 pm

The lift was from some guy in texas that makes them from billet? Alluminum, it was a birthday freebie from my brother in law. Disconnecting sway bar links is a no go, its my daily driver, and i gotta long commute down twisty country roads. While it was broke it tore up my old front tires. I live in mineral va. I know what these trucks can take. I took out a deer, mailbox, and a road sign all at once.
Last edited by bustedblazer on Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by Trail X » Wed Jun 30, 2010 1:40 pm

bustedblazer wrote:The lift was from some guy in texas that makes them from billet? Alluminum, it was a bday freebie from my brother in law. Disconnecting sway bar links is a no go, its my dd and i gotta long commute down twisty country road. While it was broke it tore up my old front tires. I live in mineral va. I know what these trucks can take. I took out a deer, mailbox, and a road sign.


I had worries about removing the front swaybar at first too. The simple thing is to try it... take one side of one link off and zip tie it to the swaybar.

I did that for a few months and eventually cut my front swaybar in half to get it out. There's a little bit of body roll, but it's minimal (at least when lifted).

Mine's a DD too (as is most everyone's here).

And... how did your end links ruin your tires?
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Jun 30, 2010 2:01 pm

:Iagree: How did the end links wear you tires? I can understand the body-roll/twisty roads being a reason you want them. I just don't feel the front as doing much. The rear makes the big difference, but it is your truck. Set it up how you like and wheel it. :safari:
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by bustedblazer » Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:36 pm

I guess the way the body rolled on the corners. The outside and inside edges of the tires were getting bald quick. Tire pressure was fine, new struts, alighnment, ball joints were all good. I just figured it was the lack of sway bar linkage. Yaw have any ideas of what else could have caused it?
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by bustedblazer » Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:58 pm

Here is a link to ebay for the lift i got. No brand name mentioned.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-200 ... 2240wt_947
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by Philberto » Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:58 pm

Welcome to the site sir. :cheers:
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by bustedblazer » Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:14 pm

Thanks. I look forward to learning from you guys.
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by Trail X » Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:41 pm

bustedblazer wrote:I guess the way the body rolled on the corners. The outside and inside edges of the tires were getting bald quick. Tire pressure was fine, new struts, alighnment, ball joints were all good. I just figured it was the lack of sway bar linkage. Yaw have any ideas of what else could have caused it?


What do you mean by "tire pressure was fine"... Don't necessarily go by what's on the door.

I run mine up at about 44 PSI which cuts down on edge wear. With a street tire, it could probably be higher... but do not exceed the max pressure on the tire sidewall.
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by bustedblazer » Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:49 pm

I normaly run three p.s.i. less than the maximum pressure thats printed on the side wall of my tires.
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by irishboy02 » Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:57 pm

Its not all about the pressure. Sounds like you mightv had an alignment issue as well.
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by bustedblazer » Thu Jul 01, 2010 4:53 am

That was one thing i checked. I have a buddy at merchants tire and he put it on the machine to check it. He said everything was good. So now im worried. I just bought brand new tires and if its not the link or any of the other things ive checked im gonna tear up the new tires.
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by bartonmd » Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:09 am

Yes, guys, disconnecting the anti-roll bar will cause excess weight to be applied to the outside tire in a corner... Yes, this will wear the outside of the outside tire, and then the slip angles get funny (car tires work on slip angles to turn) with the deformation and excess weight on the outside tire, and it wears the inside of the inside tire... i.e. the lack of anti-roll bar in the front causes there to be an effective alignment issue in corners. That is not even touching the different angles that the suspension is at. With the weight off the inside tire, the strut extends, and tips the top of the tire in toward the vehicle, giving you a wicked negative camber angle, and wearing the inside of the inside tire... This is because of our unequal length upper and lower control arms.

Yes, the front anti-roll bar is the one that does all the work... The older blazers, some cars, and most trucks don't have a rear anti-roll bar at all, because you get the most use out of the front one (on a front engine car, anyway)... Yes, it's more comfortable on bumps and going into your driveway, with the front wheels being to work seperate from one another; but taking real corners at real speed (like, say, living in the mountains), it will cause the vehicle to handle poorely, and is a lot harder on bearings and suspension parts due to the excess weight on the outside tire during corners.

The bottom line is; the steering and suspension geometry is designed to work with both anti-roll bars attached. If you drive easy on corners, or don't see a lot of corners, you probably won't notice the tire wear. However, if you live in the mountains and are turning more than you're going straight, you will definately see the extra wear from running without them.

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by Trail X » Thu Jul 01, 2010 9:41 am

bartonmd wrote:...and is a lot harder on bearings and suspension parts due to the excess weight on the outside tire during corners....


Excess weight? I believe there is actually less weight on the external tire without a roll bar. A roll bar tends to unweight the inside tire by counteracting body rotation/roll. As a result, the external tire would get transferred more weight when the roll bar is installed.

However you're right about more body roll = more camber change in corners = riding more on the edges of the tires during turns.

I also think there's a big difference between a lifted truck without a roll bar and a stock one without... due to geometry change of the front suspension, a lifted vehicle should exhibit less body roll than a stock truck. So maybe that should be the mantra... disconnect the front, but only if lifted...
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by bustedblazer » Thu Jul 01, 2010 9:54 am

I guess i should have slowed down on all those curves. Id like to post a picture of my blazer, anybody know how to go about doing it? My picture is on my cell phone and i have no idea how. :scratch:
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