Failed Fan Clutch a good thing?!

[DirtyBacon04]

So, I've been driving around with a failed fan clutch for about 2 weeks or so. The only downside, other than the turbine sound at high rpms, is perhaps a bit of over-cooling. By over cooling, I mean my avg eng temp used to be ~200-210. Now it usually hangs around 178. Now this got the gears in my head turning. Do I want to forever keep a failed fan clutch? No. I used that subject line as the classic bait and switch technique. However, my idea was, (not sure if anyone else thought of this already) installing a relay that would control the fan clutch a simple "Auto/Manual". "Auto" acting line a normal fan clutch, "Manual" acting like a failed clutch. To me, this proves beneficial for those times when you might have sustained higher RPMs and lower speeds, such as climbing steep grades, pulling through mud, climbing rocks, etc. This way you can increase airflow when the forward speed is insufficient. Perhaps especially helpful for those in the hotter climates.
The guy I'm working for now knows how to do it, so we're going to plan it out as a 2 switch system. 1st being Auto/Manual 2nd being Engage/Disengage fan clutch.

If this is an idiotic idea, please let me know. If you have any ideas or input, please let me know.

[2000sdime]

Why not just go ahead and get dual electric fans and put them on a toggle

[2000sdime]

And gain a little HP

[DirtyBacon04]

Maybe a longer term plan. This however is cheap, and somewhat easy to do.

[The Roadie]

You only need one switch. AUTO/OVERRIDE. I've been considering it for years.

Michael knows me and I spent about $500 on a failed efan experiment and had to take them out for insufficient cooling in the hot desert and mountain towing. In general, efans attract gullible folks who think they will gain a lot of HP. Like "$50 chips", nitrogen in tires, and throttle body spacers. I've run the numbers (engineers do this all day long) and the thermodynamics don't support more than *maybe* 2 HP gain. Certainly not the 10-20 that some efan enthusiasts claim. And who cares for an extra few HP anyway unless you're a drag racer? If you're running WOT on the trails you're doing something wrong and you're about to break your junk. Gear down, take a different line, get a tune to obtain more low-end torque, and ride with skill, not raw throttle.

[2000sdime]

Really it's only "maybe" 2hp damn that's crazy I've never had my s10 on the dyno after the Efan swap but it wasn't any noticeable gain that I could tell by driving it, (my s10 is my main project I've had for years with performance, suspension,and body mods " custom show street/strip truck") that's why I offered up the idea of the Efan cuz it does really well for where I live and what I use it for, I figured it may be a good idea

[DirtyBacon04]

Well, I'll give the go-ahead to my boss, and we can start working on it soon. I suppose I'll be the guinea pig here.

You only need one switch. AUTO/OVERRIDE. I've been considering it for years.

But I think by putting more switches and buttons around me, I'll feel like I'm in a Huey again...

[chevycrew]

Will this cause any check engine codes?

[DirtyBacon04]

When it's in "overdrive" i imagine it would. But i guess thats just another reminder to turn it off after you're done needing it

[The Roadie]

Unless you design a real circuit to simulate the Hall Effect sensor RPM signal using the incoming control PWM signal, you will get a code for actual fan RPM not matching commanded fan RPM. But I'm assuming everybody has a Scangauge or code reader always connected so that code can be confirmed and cleared when the switch is back to normal.

[axo488]

Im very intersted in seeing how this turns out if you persue the project. I also have a bad fan clutch in my '03 and have been debating on which route to take in fixing it. With little knowledge about the intricacies of the wiring/computer I am just wondering if there is a way to have the fan engage when at critical temperatures like it normally would. I would assume so since the phrasing that has been used for the switch is auto/overide. Im assuming the auto position would be for normal operation (factory) but would overide be used only for turning the fan off?