Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Body lift tips

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by navigator » Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:41 pm

I'm planning on picking up a Zone 2" Body Lift today from TrailShaman.
I've been reading through the instructions and was wondering if you use something like blue lock-tite or anti-seize on the body bolts.

Any other tips besides applying penetrating oil on all exposed bolt threads?
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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu Jan 31, 2013 6:29 pm

Patience is a virtue.

I have prolly helped with nearly a dozen of them. The biggest issue on any is the captured nuts at the rear most mount breaks free n you have to cut a hole n put a wrench on it to remove n tighten.

One trick i learned is just do the bolts hand tight then drive the truck a bit so everything settles. Then tighten them all the way. If you dont the body may be misaligned from frame. Seen that that on a couple.

I put nothing on the bolts.

You need a box wrench for one of rear bumper mount bolts. Its 22 or 24 mm n not everyone has that.
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by v7guy » Thu Jan 31, 2013 6:48 pm

Kyle covered it.

Keep your head back when your loosening that rear mount, water will pour outta there.
I spun each bolt in partially, shook the truck around and then dabbed some blue loctite on em and torqued em down.
I'm sure you know, but if you ever take it offroad you're not going to have a front recovery point other than the subframe or something similar, plan accordingly.
When I lifted the body up I used a couple 2x6s nailed together. They spanned the distance between two body braces just on the inside of the rocker. The whole procedure gave me the same warm fuzzies I get when using those manual/screw type spring compressors, but it got the job done.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:04 pm

I have a 6x6 dedicated to body lifts. Bout 30 inch ling fits up by frame perfect.
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by fishsticks » Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:07 pm

Mine was pretty uneventful. My body bolts came out easily, but we don't use salt on the roads here. I put them back in with anti-sieze.

When doing the steering extension, pull the upper boot way back to expose a hole in the steering rod. Shove a screwdriver into that hole and use it as a handle. It'll make more sense when you are under there. I advise taking a couple shots both before and after dealing with the steering.
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by v7guy » Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:22 pm

I forgot all about the steering. Probably because it was so traumatic. Make at least an hour available for that part alone... probably the hardest part of the whole lift. What Donny describes (alcohol and screwdriver) is what I've found to work best too.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:32 pm

Some go easy n some are day project themselves. Drink a bit n hope for the best.
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by navigator » Fri Feb 01, 2013 12:09 am

thanks guys for the tips. Kyle, I'll have to find the larger box wrenches. I think my kit only goes to 21mm.
On the recovery point I'll keep my front hitch for now until I figure that out.
I also bought the rad skid from Jamie, he mentioned something about Mike modified it to keep the tow hooks so I'll have to figure that all out when I get it next weekend.

If that doesn't work I've got another idea I think will work. I'll have to look at it more when I install the lift.
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by TSAdventurez » Fri Feb 01, 2013 12:28 am

Ive got larger wrenches if you want them.

:mechanic:
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by The Roadie » Fri Feb 01, 2013 12:45 am

v7guy wrote:I forgot all about the steering. Probably because it was so traumatic. Make at least an hour available for that part alone... probably the hardest part of the whole lift. What Donny describes (alcohol and screwdriver) is what I've found to work best too.
WHATEVER YOU DO, tie the steering wheel to something so it doesn't rotate. I was so fascinated by having a loose steering wheel and what it felt like without the extension that I spun it a few times like an idiot. That shears off your clockspring and can take a couple hundred $$ or 6 hours to repair. It's what led to my epic thread on clockspring repair on trailvoy.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Fri Feb 01, 2013 12:48 am

Never had to tie one but also dont get in the truck while the steering is disco'ed.
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by markmc » Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:05 am

navigator wrote:thanks guys for the tips. Kyle, I'll have to find the larger box wrenches. I think my kit only goes to 21mm.
On the recovery point I'll keep my front hitch for now until I figure that out.
I also bought the rad skid from Jamie, he mentioned something about Mike modified it to keep the tow hooks so I'll have to figure that all out when I get it next weekend.

If that doesn't work I've got another idea I think will work. I'll have to look at it more when I install the lift.


You will need a 21mm ratchet wrench for that one bolt..
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by navigator » Fri Feb 01, 2013 8:23 am

ok, I'll try to tie the steering wheel. With my luck I need to reduce all the risk I can.
Thanks Mark on the wrench tip. I checked and my kit only goes to 19mm so I'll have to pickup a wrench/kit or borrow one.

Thanks Jamie on the offer for the wrench, I might take you up on that offer if I can't find one
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by plaen » Fri Feb 01, 2013 6:14 pm

The Roadie wrote:
v7guy wrote:I forgot all about the steering. Probably because it was so traumatic. Make at least an hour available for that part alone... probably the hardest part of the whole lift. What Donny describes (alcohol and screwdriver) is what I've found to work best too.
WHATEVER YOU DO, tie the steering wheel to something so it doesn't rotate. I was so fascinated by having a loose steering wheel and what it felt like without the extension that I spun it a few times like an idiot. That shears off your clockspring and can take a couple hundred $$ or 6 hours to repair. It's what led to my epic thread on clockspring repair on trailvoy.



2nd'd I used the seat belt tied to itself, and it came loose, realized it when I went to reconnect the steering and it turned really easily, ended up playing with mine, and lost count of revolutions. Remembering the thread from Bill about the clockspring repair, being extremely cautious, rotated the wheel slowly to the left until I felt some tension, then turned it back 3ish revolutions, luckily I didn't break the spring. Sure freaked out when I started it up and got an airbag light though... ended up being a totally unrelated connector under the seat for the pretensioners and the seat air bags, lol.
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by Regulator1175 » Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:09 am

Yea, have fun with that steering extension. the last one I did took me 5 hours. I had to lift the body to get it to break completely free, putting it back together was another huge pain. The steering wheel side has a slip joint that allows it to go in and out, if that moves easy you will be good, if not start drinking it will help with the anger!
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by navigator » Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:58 am

Regulator1175 wrote:...... if not start drinking it will help with the anger!

nah, I don't drink, I'll just have to get mad :-).
This TB is a southern vehicle no rust or salt, hopefully everything comes apart pretty cleanly.
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by NC_IslandRunner » Sun Feb 03, 2013 1:14 am

Have a bottle of whiskey on hand just in case, you never know when you'll need to take up drinking...
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by fishsticks » Sun Feb 03, 2013 5:40 am

NC_IslandRunner wrote:Have a bottle of whiskey on hand just in case, you never know when you'll need to take up drinking...



This.
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by markmc » Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:09 pm

Band aids.. your gonna need them..
i havent done a lift yet that i havent had to lick blood off my hands.. :facepalm:

oh, and some Juicy Fruit gum is a must have item..
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by navigator » Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:32 pm

Juicy Fruit brings back memories......
My brother and I used to sit in church and to try to get us to be still and quiet grandma would take a piece of Juicy Fruit out of her purse, tear it in half and give each of us half. Kids today wouldn't know what to do if you gave them a 1/2 piece of gum or made them share a soda!
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