Before I start my lift

[Grimor]

Ok, I use my truck as my daily driver so I am trying to get everything I need to make this a more or less one shot deal. I've read a bunch on GMTN and the other site, and hit as many threads here as I could since I started thinking of doing a lift. I guess I'm just looking for some confirmation that after I get everything tore apart I won't have a part I have to order in the middle.

This is what I either have on hand or on order.

2.5" LiftMeister lift
Cardon CV shafts (maybe leave stock on till they die?)
Airlift 1000
Monroe 71341 Sensa-Trac Strut (x2)
Monroe 58644 Shocks Sensa-Trac (x2)
a few cases of beer and a stocked bar....

I plan on flipping the Upper Control Arms
will I need to machine the mounting slots in the LCA inner bracket?

I do have a couple cars if it's down for a bit, but I like to be as prepared as possible.

[Conner299]

Might want to check on those rear shocks. If they are stock replacement, they most likely won't fit.

Edit: Just looked up your rear shocks. If you are using spacers in the rear, they most definitely won't fit. I know from experience, since I have the same pair sitting in my spare parts pile.

[mikekey]

Yup, going to need longer real shock. Skip the Monroe garbage. Blistien's are a solid choice, or BDS rear shocks. You'll get different opinions on that. What is your reasoning for going with the 2.5" kit vs the 3" kit? The 3" is a better overall design.

Flipping the upper control arms is straight forward, you won't need to machine anything. When we did ours, we flipped them and changed sides while doing the lift kit. Just had to trim some of the sheet metal to get at the bolts.

Do your CV shafts need replacing? It's not something you have to do when you lift the car. I'm still running the OEM ones on my rig. Some folks seem to replace those and hubs once every year though.

[DirtyBacon04]

What Ed said, plus:
The shafts themselves are not what usually fails on new lifts. It's going to be the inner most boots on your CVs that pop loose and sling grease errrywhere. I'd recommend removing the stock crimp clamp and replace with a good metal hose clamp and tighten down as much as you can. Just for clarification i'm referring to the clamp closest to the motor on the inboard boots. If you lose your grease, water will get in and feck up your bearings... ask me how I know. I know some people just replaced the 3 rib stock boots with the poly 5 rib Cardone boots, which is a worthwhile upgrade.

Your question about machineing the LCA mounts: No. Flip upside down, swap sides. Re-align. Done.

Also recommend you open you disco and evaluate that situation. Mostly referring to grease quantity/quality. If you're feeling daring, order the AWD sleeve and replace all them gears/fork with one piece for increased strength.

If anything i've said confuses you, there are extensive articles on here about each of those topics. Read, learn, break, fix, learn, break, learn, fix, etc. Go on now, grasshopper!! You're on the right track!

[Grimor]

Yup, going to need longer real shock. Skip the Monroe garbage. Blistien's are a solid choice, or BDS rear shocks. You'll get different opinions on that. What is your reasoning for going with the 2.5" kit vs the 3" kit? The 3" is a better overall design.

Flipping the upper control arms is straight forward, you won't need to machine anything. When we did ours, we flipped them and changed sides while doing the lift kit. Just had to trim some of the sheet metal to get at the bolts.

Do your CV shafts need replacing? It's not something you have to do when you lift the car. I'm still running the OEM ones on my rig. Some folks seem to replace those and hubs once every year though.

As far as I know the CV shafts are fine currently. From what I was reading it seemed that as soon as you lift the stock ones leak all over, I found out after that this isn't always the case. It won't bother me having a spare set laying around.

I went with the 2 1/2 just to put a little less stress on everything.

Good to know on the shocks. glad that was one of the parts I didn't have in hand yet. I was originally looking at the Blistien HD's but was reading that they were stiff and wanted a closer to stock ride. I read good reviews on the Sensa-Tracs and I'd like to keep the ride close to stock. I'm doing the lift mostly for just a bit more clearance but don't plan on doing much real offroading. Are the regular Blistiens more forgiving than the HD?

Your question about machineing the LCA mounts: No. Flip upside down, swap sides. Re-align. Done.

wait, flip the LCA or the UCA?

[Conner299]

I ran those shocks for about two months, before I put my lift on. I actually liked them. They were stiffer than stock, but weren't bad at all. I usually keep a decent amount of weight in the back, and these made it feel like an empty truck. There was also no rear end slump, under acceleration. They even gave me about 3/4 inch lift, on the rear, at the fenders. I'm sure they'd settle, after awhile.

[Conner299]

Upper control arms get flipped and swapped.

[The Roadie]

LCA mounting slots can be machined if you fail to be alignable. Nobody can predict this, it turns out.

[mikekey]

It is funny how some folks can get aligned perfectly and others can't. I wonder if it's a height/wheel combo or what. One of the things my wife and I noticed during the spring TECORE is Jason's (v7guy) CV's where at a different angle than ours at rest even though we both have a similar amount of lift and we had larger tires at the time.

Anyways, good luck with you lift. Do post up pictures and let us know how it goes. Feel free to ask additional questions if you can't find them thru search or don't understand something.

[Grimor]

Ok, canceled the rear monroes and ordered some BDS Hydraulic Shock Absorber 55619's

bah, second guessing myself. Has anyone ran both the 5500 and 9500/Fox 2.0?(not at the same time of course) I'm looking for close to stock ride, maybe a little stiffer.

[Opeth]

I have the Bilstein 5125 (255v70) rear shocks with Z 71 Tahoe springs. I enjoy the crisp firm ride it gives, but I have also always had a tuner car with TEIN coil overs. But it's no where near as stiff as my semi work truck.

[HARDTRAILZ]

I ran those shocks for about two months, before I put my lift on. I actually liked them. They were stiffer than stock, but weren't bad at all. I usually keep a decent amount of weight in the back, and these made it feel like an empty truck. There was also no rear end slump, under acceleration. They even gave me about 3/4 inch lift, on the rear, at the fenders. I'm sure they'd settle, after awhile.

Shocks gave you lift????

[HARDTRAILZ]

Do your CV shafts need replacing? It's not something you have to do when you lift the car. I'm still running the OEM ones on my rig. Some folks seem to replace those and hubs once every year though.

I wish I still had my stockers. They lasted the longest for me even though they had a buncha miles on before the lift.

The Cardone boots are junk IMO. Mine tore far to easily.

I replace hubs every year just about, but the ebay stock style rebuilt shafts have been good for awhile now.

[ErikSS]

LIFT PARTY!!!

[Grimor]

LIFT PARTY!!!

Anyone who wants to help is more than welcome to swing by.

[ErikSS]

You have some Chicagoland resources! (GMT meet had 4 lifted trucks, 3 from Chicago area)

I don't drink, but I suspect that bar may interest hotness and Hatchet! lol

[Conner299]

Shocks gave you lift????

The shocks have a coil over them, and this is what I think caused this. If you read reviews on Amazon, you'll read a few others reporting the same thing.

[HARDTRAILZ]

I did not realize they were those kinda shocks. I only dealt with them once and they made a half ton ride like dog shit, so I have not touched em in the past decade or so.

[fishsticks]

LIFT PARTY!!!

Anyone who wants to help is more than welcome to swing by.

You had me at Hello.

[v7guy]

I think you should scrap the whole 2.5" lift and shocks and get radflos. Just sayin.